7-Day Greece Yacht Itinerary–Sporades Islands

Skiathos town harbor is always busy thanks to daytripper boats and fishing charter operators, so be patient in your search for a berth. Make Bourtzi, a tiny peninsula separating the old port from the new, your first stop. Tuck into strapatsada (Greek-style omelette) for breakfast at waterfront cafe-bar BU, where a Venetian fortress stood between the 13th and 17th centuries to protect the island from pirates. Afterwards, stroll through the cobblestoned streets of Skiathos’ old town. 

At the late 18th-century hilltop Holy Monastery of the Annunciation to the Virgin Mary, a 15-minute drive from the harbor, absorb the serenity of your surroundings. Here, in 1807, Greece’s first flag was designed, sewn and flown. Don’t miss the small museum, whose exhibits include handwritten documents from the past 500 years. 

In the afternoon, take a water taxi or cab to the sandy shores of low-key Megalos Aselinos beach, in the northwest. There are sunbeds available for rent or space to spread your towel. For dinner, try Akrogiali, one of the best fish tavernas on the island capital’s seafront, or inventive Greek in town at cosy Marmita. Wrap up your evening with a beer at The Old Port House Bar or a novel cocktail at upbeat GinFish, both at the Old Port.  

Dock at the town quay in Patitiri, a well-sheltered natural harbor in Alonissos’ southeast. If it’s full, anchor in the bay. Start your day with a walk along the waterfront. Inquire about regulations and permit requirements regarding the National Marine Park of Alonissos and Northern Sporades at the organization’s management office in Patitiri. You’ll require, at minimum, a ticket to visit Kyra Panagia island, your next port of call. These can be purchased online. 

Patitiri is also the name of Alonissos’ main town, which was rebuilt following a 1965 earthquake. However, vestiges of its past are visible in the upper village (or Hora), a traditional settlement. Walk its tangle of cobblestoned streets and terracotta-roofed houses built fortress-style on a hillside to deter invaders. From there, bask in the Aegean’s deep blues. 

In the afternoon, jump in the tender or kayak, if weather permits, to discover beaches and rocky coves bathed in crystalline waters. To the east is popular Chrysi Milia, with its shallow waters and sandy shore. Just north is Kokkinokastro, a fine pebble beach flanked by rust-red cliffs. Both beaches have sun loungers available to rent. Few also venture to Gremisma, a rocky outcrop just south of the port. Its ultramarine waters are made for snorkeling. 

In the evening, take a 20-minute cab ride to Steni Vala harbor to dine at Tassia’s Cooking, one of the island’s finest traditional fish tavernas. With views of Patitiri port, Kritamo is known for its Mediterranean cuisine and generous servings. Make sure to stock up on provisions for your next stop. 

Kyra Panagia offers two sheltered bays for anchorage. This rugged isle is located in Zone A, the most environmentally sensitive, of the National Marine Park of Alonissos Northern Sporades. Anchoring is only permitted in designated areas, namely Agios Petros Bay in the south or lagoon-like Planitis in the north. Ensure to avoid Posidonia seagrass meadows.

Except for a single monk, Kyra Panagia is the largest uninhabited island north of Alonissos. Excavations in Agios Petros indicate that it has been inhabited since the Neolithic era, around 6,000 BCE. Today, Father Hariton resides at the Kyra Panagia monastery and happily receives visitors in a vine-shaded courtyard. Many arrive on boat excursions. Whitewashed steps carved into a rockface lead up to the restored stone and timber building.

In the afternoon, tender your way around Kyra Panagia to see its steep cliffs, hike trails amid Kermes oak trees, and low Mediterranean shrubs, and swim and snorkel at remote coves. Established in 1992, the marine park includes Alonissos, six smaller islands, including Peristera, Kyra Panagia, and Skatzoura, and 22 rocky islets, while it also has EU Natura 2000 protection status. It’s home to rare and endangered flora and fauna, including the Mediterranean monk seal, loggerhead and green turtles, and Cuvier’s beaked whale. Approaching caves where seals or birds nest is strictly forbidden, as is disturbing marine life and fishing. Back on board, as night falls, the stars guarantee a mesmerizing light show. 

Dock at Linaria port, whose small size belies its big reputation as one of Greece’s most welcoming and best-organized municipal marinas. University students help run operations, escorting charterers into the natural harbor off the southwestern coast to assist with berthing. The most southerly of the Sporades, ultra-mellow Skyros draws relatively few visitors. Landscapes vary from the rugged south to the pine-laden forests of the north. 

Step off the passarelle and make your way to Kavos for top-quality coffee and Cretan dakos (tomato and feta salad atop rye rusk) for breakfast. Situated on a rocky hillside north of the port, this cafe-bar offers soothing sea views from above and glittering waters below for an energizing morning swim. 

Rent a car to explore this sizable island, starting with Hora (also known as Skyros Town), the medieval capital, whose whitewashed, cube-shaped homes cling to a slope on the northeast coast. Make sure to trek to the castle, believed to have been built on an ancient acropolis, at the top for sweeping views. Traditional Skyrian costumes, hand-carved wooden furniture and ceramics feature in the rare collections of the Faltaits Folklore & Ethnological Museum.

In the afternoon, drive to the sandy shores of long, family-friendly Molos beach just north of the town. As the day winds down, take a seat at beachfront Istories tou Barba taverna for a slow, late lunch of fennel pie, octopus with bulgur wheat, and cuttlefish with chickpeas. Stay around till sunset, for views of Hora flooded in orange light. Stock up on provisions for your next stop, the remote islet of Skatzoura.

Like Kyra Panagia, Skatzoura is located within the marine park’s Zone A, so a ticket needs to be purchased to anchor there. Anchoring is only permitted at this uninhabited isle between sunrise and sunset, so make sure to arrive early and depart in good time to reach Peristera, your next destination. There is a magnificent anchorage in the southwest of Skatzoura, which offers reasonable holding in the sand, with lines ashore needed in some wind conditions. 

The first thing you’ll want to do upon arrival at your anchorage is dive into the translucent cyan-hued waters, the type that make boats appear as if they’re floating in thin air. This is also a great spot to explore with a snorkel and mask. Outside the peak months of July and August, your boat may well be the only one there. 

This mostly flat island, measuring just 2.3 square meters (6 square kilometers), constitutes a series of low scrubby hills covered in maquis, phrygana and juniper shrubs. Like most of the islands in the vicinity, Skatzoura is largely composed of rough limestone, which makes walking on the island difficult. Instead, tender your way around to admire striking rock formations and snorkel at isolated coves. 

Birdwatchers should keep an eye out for Eleonora’s falcon and the rare Audouin’s gull, which maintain critical breeding habitats on the island. Seals and dolphins may also make an appearance, but ensure to keep your distance.

Stretching parallel to Alonissos’ eastern coast, Peristera—also uninhabited—is best known for the ancient shipwreck that lies off its northwestern coast. Falling within the bounds of the marine park, anchoring is permitted at numerous bays, however, one of the best is right near the wreck (navagio in Greek). An unrelated beached wreck makes the location easily recognizable.

Divers from around the world swarm to this unique location, dubbed the Parthenon of shipwrecks. In 2020, it was declared Greece’s first underwater museum in 2020, opening up access to undersea ancient sites and artefacts. Dated to around 425 to 420 BCE, this Classical-era shipwreck was discovered at a depth of 82ft (25m) in 1985. It was one of the biggest merchant vessels of the time, carrying about 3,000 wine amphorae from the ancient Greek cities of Mende and Peparethus, along with plates, bowls, cups, and bronze tableware associated with symposia.

Fish glimpse the oranges, greens, and reds of the corals, schooling fish, and sponges. Mystery surrounds its sinking 2500 years later, with experts suggesting the ship may have encountered stormy weather or that a fire broke out onboard. Recreational divers with Advanced Open Water Diver certification or equivalent are permitted to explore the site under the strict guidance of experienced divers from accredited operators, such as Alonissos Triton Dive Center or Alonissos Seacolours Dive Center. Book at least a week in advance. 

Slip into a berth at Skopelos Town (also known as Hora) harbor, on the southeastern coast. Its main quay offers visitor berthing pending availability. 

Start your Skopelos explorations with a local cheese pie and a stroll through Hora’s stone-paved streets past tens of churches. Admire traditional whitewashed homes with doors and shutters painted blue, cherry and pale green as you make your way up to the 17th-century Panagitsa of Pyrgos church. Keep walking and you’ll reach the town’s Venetian castle. Over 300 chapels are found throughout Skopelos, many hidden among protected pine forests which cover about 80 per cent of the island. 

Mamma Mia fans should make a beeline for picturesque Agios Ioannis chapel, east of Glossa village, where the movie’s wedding scene was filmed. Be prepared for a steep walk up some 100 steps. On the western coast, pebbled Kastani beach also made a star turn. If it’s privacy you prefer, motor to Hovolo, a succession of narrow sand and pebble coves with transparent waters and rocky white cliffs. 

In the early afternoon, take the tender to the small port town of Agnondas for a seafood lunch at Korali (book in advance) or a final swim at Stafylos beach. Both offer protection from summer northerly winds. If your tribe is pining for one last sundowner, continue north along the western coast and drop anchor at Panormos Bay. Your Sporades sailing adventure doesn’t need to have a bitter end. Pick up traditional local sweets such as walnut-based rozedes and almond-filled chamalia in Hora to take home.