Sailing Scotland’s Hebrides: Wild Islands and Hidden Anchorages

From whisky-rich Islay to ancient Iona and dramatic Skye, explore rugged islands, sheltered anchorages, and unforgettable Scottish landscapes by sea.

Scotland has over 10,000 miles of spectacular coastline and 750 islands, including more than 100 in the Inner and Outer Hebrides. The country offers some of the world’s best sailing grounds, with stunning natural beauty, ancient ruins, and plenty of whisky to sample. 

Wild, rugged, and often remote, the Scottish mainland and its islands are truly magical. There’s so much to discover that I return year after year—revisiting favorite destinations and exploring something new each time. When someone asks me if a week is enough, I have to tell them that even if you had an entire year or more, you’d still need more time. 

That said, when it comes to sailing the Hebrides, while a single yacht charter trip won’t cover all the islands, you can tailor your experience to explore a specific area, such as the Inner Hebrides, or a smaller number of the Outer Hebrides. Or perhaps combine a few of both, depending on the time you have. For most, it’s necessary to narrow down the options, with these islands being some of the best to explore on a yacht charter. 

The Inner Hebrides

There are 35 inhabited islands and 44 larger, uninhabited islets in the Inner Hebrides. The archipelago lies just off the west coast of mainland Scotland, southeast of the Outer Hebrides. The largest and most populated islands—Islay, Mull, and Skye—are also three of my favorites. But Jura, Iona, Staffa, and the Small Isles (Rum, Canna, Muck, and Eigg) are equally worth visiting.

Islay

Islay is a great island to begin your yacht charter. It can easily be reached by plane from Glasgow Airport or by ferry from the port of Oban, a town worthy of a visit on its own. It’s also possible to access it by direct ferry from Ballycastle in Northern Ireland, which sails to the Port Ellen Marina at Islay’s southern end, where charters typically depart. The southernmost island in the Inner Hebrides, it’s renowned for its whisky, with nine working distilleries. (So you might want to bring an empty duffel bag or leave room in your suitcase for a bottle or two). I was especially impressed by Ardbeg, as its whiskies are very “peaty” with smoky, spicy flavors and often a touch of sweetness, with vanilla or chocolate tones. It’s been honored with many prestigious awards, like the “World’s Best Single Malt.”

The island also boasts stunning natural beauty with white sand beaches tucked into secluded coves lapped by vibrant turquoise water. Wildlife enthusiasts can watch for red deer, seals, otters, and more than 200 bird species, including puffins and golden eagles. 

Mull

With a captivating coastline featuring dramatic cliffs, sea lochs, and beaches covered with shells, the island of Mull is the second largest in the Inner Hebrides. It’s notable for its abundant wildlife, which can also be seen in the uninhabited Treshnish Isles, including sea eagles, puffins, dolphins, basking sharks, and whales. 

Mull is home to one of the prettiest villages in Scotland, harborside Tobermory, iconic for its colorful homes and buildings lined along the waterfront. Plus, nearby is the island of Staffa, home to a world-famous wonder, Fingal’s Cave. It’s possible to take a tender to get off and explore its incredible basalt columns. 

Skye

One of the most popular destinations in Scotland, the Isle of Skye is overrun by tourists from at least May through early October, but on a yacht charter, you can cruise to a lesser-known anchorage to explore some of its more remote areas. That includes Loch Scavaig, which offers anchorage at the base of the Cuillin Mountains with jaw-dropping views and opportunities for hiking. Or, head to Isleornsay, a pretty village that’s less-trafficked. If you have your heart set on viewing iconic places like the Fairy Pools and the Old Man, a pinnacle of rock standing among the pinnacles and craggy spires on Trotternish Ridge, plan to arrive as early as possible. Your reward for the effort is a panoramic view stretching all the way to the mainland. 

Jura 

Located between the mainland of Argyll and Islay, Jura is also famous for its whisky, along with its trio of mountains called the Paps of Jura and a significant population of red deer. There are some 5,000 of the animals, far outnumbering the 220 or so human inhabitants. The main anchorage is Craighouse Bay in the main village of Craighouse, with the only road running from here to the ferry port at Feolin and along the island’s east coast. The rest of the island is pure wilderness. In the village, you’ll find the island’s only pub and hotel, several craft and gift shops, and the Jura Distillery, which makes its famous single malt. There’s also one other spirit maker, Deer Island Rum. 

Iona

Despite being just three miles long and one-and-a-half miles wide with a population of 120, Iona shouldn’t be missed. The arrival at St. Columba’s Bay alone is impressive, with its colorful beach and dazzling surroundings. If visiting the island’s top attraction, Iona Abbey, consider anchoring in the sheltered Sound of Iona. Founded in 563 AD by St. Columba, the abbey survived numerous Viking attacks before becoming home to Benedictine monks in the early 13th century.

The Small Isles: Rum, Canna, Muck, and Eigg

Designated a National Scenic Area, the Small Isles are rich in history, archaeology, culture, and wildlife. Lying to the south of Skye, each has its own unique character. The best anchorages are sheltered Canna Harbour with its picturesque scenery, Loch Scresorts on Rùm (the island’s only accessible anchorage), and various spots around Muck and Eigg, with protected bays and sandy beaches.

Canna, owned by the National Trust for Scotland, is known as the “garden of the Hebrides,” due to its fertile soil, while featuring soaring basalt cliffs and abundant birdlife. Rum is home to 19th-century Kinloch Castle and offers rugged wilderness and mountains. Eigg is famous for its dramatic Sgurr of Eigg (a volcanic plug) and its singing sands, made up of quartz. Muck is the most southerly and smallest, but it offers beautiful sandy beaches and panoramic views from Beinn Airein, its highest point.

The Outer Hebrides

The Outer Hebrides include over 100 islands and skerries, but just 15 of them are inhabited, with the main inhabited islands including Lewis and Harris, North Uist, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. It’s best to island-hop down the more sheltered east coasts, with a half-dozen new marinas spanning from Stornoway to Barra. The network features both fully serviced facilities and more isolated anchorages for an ideal mix. 

Lewis

The best place to begin your journey through the Outer Hebrides is the Hebridean capital of Stornoway. While it’s a relatively small town with a population of approximately 7,000, it’s the largest settlement in the region and has a larger population stretching out to the surrounding villages for a total of around 12,000. You’ll find the most facilities here, including many outstanding pubs for catching live traditional music before cruising. That includes the Criterion Bar, the New Lewis Bar, and McNeills, where I recently spent an evening among friendly locals. Stornoway also has the largest harbor in the Western Isles and is well-sheltered, while providing easy access to the town. 

For exploring, Lewis offers impressive attractions including the recreated Bosta Iron Age House at Bosta Beach and the Calanais Standing Stones, erected 5,000 years ago—even older than Stonehenge.

Harris

The Isle of Harris is the largest island in Scotland, covering approximately 841 square miles. It’s home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the world, including Luskentyre with unspoiled white sands lapped by clear, brilliant blue-green water. Sail to the east coast for access to the rest of the island by sea or road. There are several places to anchor, including The Bays, a series of coastal indentations that each have a small community. The small harbor village of Tarbert is the island’s main center on the east coast and can be easily accessed via the East Loch just a short distance away. 

The Isle of Harris Distillery is located right in Tarbert, offering the chance to learn more about its whisky, sample the spirits, and buy a variety of exclusive local goods. There are several eateries, markets, and independent shops in the village too. Wildlife enthusiasts will find a good selection of walks for spotting red deer, otters, sea eagles, and golden eagles. The Harris Eagle Observatory is only a 20-minute drive north of Tarbert, providing one of the best opportunities for viewing golden eagles in Scotland. 

Uist

Uist is made up of six islands, all linked by causeways. They include Berneray, North Uist, Grimsay, Benbecula, South Uist, and Eriskay. Berneray lies between Harris and North Uist, providing an outstanding spot with beautiful beaches on both the west and east coasts. It’s popular for watching seals and has a heritage center with a bistro and cafe. You can anchor in the main Berneray Harbour, part of Bays Loch. 

Continuing to North Uist, the main port is Lochmaddy, which has an excellent marina and a village with a museum, arts center, and shops. More than half of the island itself is covered with water, with the rest a mix of low hills, peat bogs, and lochs where you can capture stunning reflections of the sky in the water. Anchor at Kallin Harbour in Grimsay by rafting alongside the fishing boats. It offers a lively community hub and cafe as well as a boat museum and seafood shop. 

Benbecula is tucked between North and South Uist. It’s home to more breathtaking beaches, abundant wildlife, and a distillery with tours and tastings available. The main place to anchor is the pier at Peter’s Port. 

South Uist boasts over 20 miles of continuous white sandy beaches covered with shells along the west coast, while the east coast features bays and inlets that face the Minch. Lochboisdale Harbour is world-class, providing the perfect place to stop and enjoy it all. 

Finally, Eriskay offers anchorage at Acarsaid Mhor on the east coast, a convenient spot for concluding your yacht charter with time in the Am Politician pub, which hosts live music on weekends.

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